Scallop-trimming device for sewing-machines.



' A. DRT.

scm-1.1.01J TBIMMING DEVICE Pon SEWING MAcHINBs.

,074,452 APPLIUATION FILED JANv 16, 1910. Patented Sept- 30 3 SHEETS-SHEET l.

"Hirn I l 1"'llmmlllIII n 1w A 11 f Ii P a i J /V y j Y y Y l la *Url of'. wc Messes. ./L/ror A. ORT.

SGALLOP TRIMMING DEVICE POR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED 31111.15, 1910.

1,074,452. Patented Sept. 30, 1913.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

Fig. 12.

UNITED sTaTEs PATENT oEErcE.

ANToN ORT, oF PARIS, FRANCE, AssIGNoR 0F oNEJmLE To HERMANN DnossNEn, 0F Paars, FRANCE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 30, 1913.

Applicatioled January-15, 1810. Serial No. 538,328.

To all whom it may concern.'

Be it known that I, ANTON ORT, manufacturer, a subject of the Emperor of Aush tria-Hungary, residin at 16 Rue Herold, Paris, France, have 1nvented certaln new and useful Improvementsin Scallop-Trnn ming Devices for Sewlng-Machlnes, of which the following is a s ecicatlon.

The resent invention re ates to an automatic evice which may be attached to any scalloping or festoon-sewing machine, with one or two needles, and is intended to trim the scallop automatically as soon as it 1s completed', an operation which hitherto has been effected only by hand.

This device comprises essentially a knife or cutter which executes a vertical reciprocatory movement for effecting the trimming and is revoluble around its vertical axis so as to present itself always tangentially to the outer edge of the scallop or festoon. The material is held by two rollers located on one and the other side of the knife. l

The accompanying drawing illustrates by way of example the application of the device forming the present invention, to a scalloping machine.

Figure 1 is a part elevation in art section of the arm of the machine. ig. 2 is a section on line 2-2 of Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a. plan view of the work table. a part elevation in V.part section of the cut ter and its operating mechanism. Fig. 5

is a section on line 5-5 of Fig. 4. Fig. 6v

is a view at right angles of the slidingfpart of the blade-carrying arm of Fig. 4. 1v 7 is a view from below of the spring plate' seen in Fig. 4.. 8 and 9 are details of the rollers. Fig. 10 is an elevation at right angles to Fig. 1, as seen from the left.

Fig. 1'1 1s a detail in section ofthe contrdl ling device for the eccentrica. Fig. 12 is aI pli'irnhof the releasingarm for this device. a stem or carriera to which it is secured by a screw a. a ball `oint a*i 'to a double cranked lever a* pivote at b. This lever aa carries a roller a* upon which there may actan eccentric a Fig. 4 isl The stem a" is connected byf upon the lower extremity of which is screwed a presser e which serves to hold the material in a suitable manner during the operation of the cutter. The socket c receives a vertical up and down movement at its ball jointed extremity c2` from a doubly cranked lever e similar to the lever a3. The lever e carries a roller e* upon which there acts an eccentric e5 loose upon the mainshaft c and integral with the eccen-` tric a The lever e is also pivoted at b. The eccentrics a and el5 are also held in place upon the shaft c bg means of a ring c. They can be couple automatically to the shaft and likewise be uncoupled therefrom. For this purpose, there is mounted upon the shaft a a isk r provided with a throat r and secured upon the shaft c by a feather r2 so as to turn with it but to be displaceable' longitudinally. In the throat of this disk there engage the two rollers ci*y of a .fork s (Figs. 1 and 11) pivoted at .s2 upon the frame A and havinga stem s. In the disk r there is mounted a sliding catch t which under the action of a spring t tends to enter a hole t2 formed in the eccentric c, .If the lower end of the stem s receives an oscillatory movement 'toward the left (Fig.

l), the disk r will move to the right and Y the eccentrics a and c5 will be released and the knife a iand the presser-foot e" will no lo er receive 'any movement. The stem s an .disk r are brought back automatically bypa spring r so that as soon as the stem 1s no 4longer displaced positively toward the v left, the disk 1- returns to contact with the e cutter o (Fig. 4) is mounted uponl eccentric e and :the spring catch t enters the eccentric so coupling the 'two eccentrics to the shaft c of the machine.

In order' that it ma, remain tangential to the edge o'f `the sca op which has been formed upon the material 'by the needle or to perform an oscillatory movement around needles :n (Figs. 3 and 4), the knife a has its vertical axis and the presser-foot e has also to swing around the same axis, in such a way as always to keep the same position in relationI to the cutter. This motion is communicated to them by a sleeve f which surrounds the socket e and is revoluble in a fixed support g. Toward its lower end the sleeve f carries a pinion f which meshes with a rack f2 (Figs. 4 and 10) and receives from this rack an oscillatory motion. At its upper end the sleeve f carries a releasing arm f8 provided with a pin f, the position of which can be regulated along a slot fo; the pin f* is adapted to act upon the stern s above mentioned, for the purpose of disconnectingthe knife and the presser-foot as described hereinafter. The pinion, f is secured by the screw, f5 to the sleeve f, which is connected, as regards rotation only, to the stem, a', by the key, 71.; the latter i s fixed to the stem, a', by being sunk therein and secured to two screws, and it is slidably engaged with the sleeves, f and e, by its projecting part which fits in the longitudinal slots visible at top and bottom of the key 1n Fig. 14.

In order to effect the cutting or tr1mming, the knife a coacts with a round plate z' traversed by a rectangular hole 1I through which there passes the knife a. The latter is provided with an extension a6 servlng as a guide and it is, moreover, pressed constantly back by a small spring plate 2 against the edge (Figs. 3 and 7) of the h ole v1', so as to effect a clean cut in conliuncti'on with this cutting edge, even if the materlal is hard to cut or if the knife itself is blunted.

From the foregoing it will be understood that the plate, z' is provided with a rectangular opening in oneend ofwhich the extremity of the knife a fits, said extremity being held in place by the movable p late, t2 which is pressed against it by a spring, as shown in Fig. *7.

The round plate z' (Fig. 3) is arranged in an opening j' in a plate j adapted to slide transversely in the work table c of the machine, so as to allow the cutter a, which has only a vertical reciprocating motion and an oscillating motion about its axis, to cut either at the swell S of the scallop (Fig. 3) or at the cusp or point P; the work is fed or guided both transversely and longitudinally as will be described hereafter. The plate i revolves, like the cutter, about its vertical axis and is for vthis reason made integral with a pinion is (Fig. 4) adapted to perform an oscillatory motion under the action of a rack z" (Figs. 4 and 10).

The rack f2 is attached by screws (Fig. 10) to the rack z" which is connected by means of a part m. and a wing nut l working in a slot m2 to a lever arm m which is pivoted at m. This arm receives an oscillating movement in a known manner from a drum n provided with a cam-groove n in which there travels a pin 11,2 screwed` to the arm m. The oscillatory movement communicated by the drum n to the lever m reciprocates the racks f2 and t and so oscillates the pinions f and 3. knife a and the opposing plate z' rotate in such a way tli-at the cutter remains tangential to the edge of the scallop so as to effect the trimming in a suitable manner.

In order to guide and feed the scalloped material longit-udinally over the plates i and j, after the scallop has been produced by the needles m (Figs. 4 and 3), two small rollers p 7) are arranged above the plate j. These revolving rollers are preferably coated with rubber to obtain good adhesion While they press the scalloped `material against the plate j and so feed it in the longitudinal di? rection. The plate j has a pin j engaged between collars 7'2 on the spindle q and performs a transverse movement corresponding to the transverse feed imparted to the material for the shaping of the scallop in such a Way that each point of the outer edge of the scallop comes in turn under the knife a. The roller p receives its rotary movement from the shaft q (Fig. 3) of the drum n and it operates the roller p by toothed pinions f" 723 (Figs. 8 and 9). In this way the material receives a positive feed after leaving the needles w.

The plate, j, and rollers, p, p', receive their reciprocating motion from the shaft, q, which has itself a longitudinal reciprocating motion. The rollers are operated directly, the roller, p, being mount-ed upon the shaft, g. The plate, 7' is operated by means of its pin, j', (Fig. 10,) engaged between the collars, jz, on the spindle or shaft, g, said spindle or shaft itself receiving reciprocating motion from the cam-drum, fn., by means of the attachment, g, which is connected by a rod as mXX to the pendulum lever, m3, as will be seen in Fig. 1. These parts are similar to the parts, m and m", which actuate the sliding racks, f2 and 4. In addition to its reciprocation, the shaft or spindle, g, has also a radial motion, received direct from the ratchet wheel, 10, which is seen in Fig. 10, between the end of the frame and the drum, n.

The spindle or shaft, g, on which the drum, n, is mounted is really a telescopic shaft, the inner portion carrying at one end the feed roller, p, and having at the other end a iiattened port-ion, 12, Fig. 1, which is engaged by a projection 13, secured on the face of the drum n. The outer portion or sleeve through which the inner part of the shaft slides longitudinally, is connected to Consequently the y the drive wheel or ratchet, 10, and the'dmm, n, is fixed upon this sleeve by any well known means. The inner slidable part of the shaft hasia groove orl double collar, 14,

: to engage a ork upon the attachment, g.

The rollers p p are mounted in frames, p1, p10, connected `by screwsT p', engaged in slots, p, and are adjustable according to the work being done and they may be replaced for example by larger ones in the case. of larger scallops.

When the knife reaches the end P `ef a scallop-tooth, in order to continue the trimming and commence the following tooth, it must turn in the opposite direction from the rst so as to return tothe position which i-t `has to loccupy izo-commence the' trimming ot a tooth. This change of direction in its oscifllation results from the fact that the rack f2 has at this moment reached the end of its st-roliiel and returns in the opposite direction under the action of the drum n. The return of this rack oscillates. the pinion f the opposite direction so that-the knife then turns oppositely around its vertical axis. Since the same applies of course to the pwesser-foot e, these two parts will therefore occupy always the-desired position for beginning to trim each tooth. -In order', however, tol-prevent the knife from going too iai: when-:the P of the'tooth approaches, which would cause cutting of the festoon, and in order .to allow it to return to its ori al positiom'- it is disconnected shortlylgorereaciling this point, for example three callo stitches or points. before. This result is f tained. by making the 'pin' f4 off` the arm F' moment with the stem av which operates the clutch-disk?, sov that the eccentrica are disconnected' and' the knife and presser-foot held! stationary. As soon. as the rack f2 returnslin the` opposi'teidirection the pin f* 11e-- leases the stem .9. wird the eccentrics are engaged! automatically.' by the` spring catch t, so that the knife resumes its motion.

Ifn order that' the knife a.- may be placed out of auction When desired for a length of' time, the levers a3 and e are mountedI eccentrically upon their` pivot b: (Figs. '1 and 2)' so that the turning et this pivot by meansv of a knob b or the like will lower these l'evens and their'roll'ers 'w and: efwhic'h are in thi'sway removed from the' action of the eccentricsl a5' and' 6; The distance from: the needle or needlcszaitc knife must obviously be equall to the width of the scallop bein-g ormed bythe machine. The plate t' and the. knife a aretherefore adjustable in relation' to the needles. The` support' g `is mounted; ona@ bracket g', slidable upon the fname A andx havingf slots. gz engaged by screws g' y whichit many be clamped at any desired position.

engage` precisely at this The. rotary movement of the knife a, the socket e and the plate a' may be regulated by moving the nut l along the slotted art m. The depth of the scallop is regulate in the lipwn )manner by means of a Wing nut Z T e operation of the device will be understood at once from the preceding description. The material is fed so as to present in turn to the knife all parts of the outer edge of the scallop. In proportion as it passes over the plate z' and under the cutter a, the latter trims it alon-g the scallop remaining-constantly tangential to the exterior outline of the latter. v All the parts are adjustable or exchangeable so that festoons or scallops of all: dimensions may be produced,-

The improved device is simple and practical and allows of effecting automatically and ina careful manner the operation of trimming which has hitherto been performed only by hand and at great pains on the part off the operator.

Havingthus described my invention, what I clair-m as such and desire to secure by Letters Patent is l. A scallop trimming device for sewing machines, comprising a trimming knife, a main shaft, an eccentric upon the ma-inshaft, means-for reciprocating said knife by the rotation o'said eccentric, means for connecting' said eccentric to said mainshaft, means for iding the material having a longitudina and transverse feed', and means for keeping said. knife tangential to; the outer edge of the scallop.

2; A scallop trimming device for sewing machines, comprising a: trimming knife, means for reciprocating said knife, means for guiding the material, a pinion, means for transmitting therotation of said pinion to saidA knie, a rack engaging said pinion and a cam-drum, and means for reciprocating said rack, said meansy bein controlledg by the scallop-controlling cam rum.

3. A; scallop trimming device for sewing machines,l comprisin a trimming knife, means for reciprocatln said knife, means forguiding the materia said guiding means includi rollers, said rollers being on opposite si es of the knife, positive means for rotating said rollers, andi means for keeping said: knife tangential to the outer edge of the scallop.

4. A. scallop trimming' device for sewing machines, comprising a trimming knife, a main shaft, ani eccentric upon the mainshaft of the' machine, means for reciprocating said knife by means for guid-in the material, apresserfoot cci-acting wit lsaid' knife, a second eccentric upon the'mainshat of the machine, meansv for reciprocating said' presser-foot by the' rotation of said eccentric, Y

. end of each scallop the rotation of said second eccentric, means for connecting said eccentrics to said mainshaft, and means for keeping said knife tangential to the outer edge of the scallop.

5. A scallop trimming device for sewing machines, comprisi a trimming knife, means for reciprocatl said knife, means for guiding the materia means for revolving said knife upon its axis in accordance with the direction of the outer edge of the scallop, and means for disconnecting said knife-reciprocating means just before the and for reconnecting at the beginning of t e next scallop, said knife being meanwhile returned to its original position.

6. A scallop trimming device for sewing machines, comprising a trimming knife, means for reciprocating said knife, means for guiding the material, a socket inclosing said knife, an arm mounted on said socket, means for revolving said knife, socket and arm upon their'axis in accordance with the direction of the outer edge of the scallop, said arm disconnecting said knife-reciprocating means in an extreme angular position, and means for automatic reconnection thereafter.

7. A scallop trimming device for sewing machines, comprising a trimming knife, a main shaft, an eccentric upon the mainshaft of the machine, means for reciprocating said knife by the rotation of said eccentric,

v means for guiding the material, a socket inclosing said knife, a presser-foot secured upon the lower end of said socket, said presser-foot co-acting with said knife, a second eccentric upon the mainshaft of the machine, means for reciprocating. said socket and presser-foot b the rotatlon of said second eccentric, sai eccentrics being in suitable an ular relation, a revoluble sleeve surrouning said socket, an arm mounted vupon said sleeve, means for revolving said knife, sleeve and arm upon their axis in accordance with the dlrection of the outer edge of the scallop and disconnectible means for connecting said eccentrics to said mainshaft, said last means being disconnected -by said arm in an extreme position and automatically reconnected thereafter.

8. A scallop trimming device for sewing machines, comprising a trimming knife, a main shaft, an eccentric upon the main shaft of the machine, a lever, a pivot for said lever, said lever being connected to i said knife, a roller carried by said lever,

said roller adapted to travel upon said eccentric and thereby to cause the oscillation of said lever and the reciprocation of said knife, and an eccentric device for removing said roller from contact with said eccentric by varying the position of said pivot.

y9. A scallop trimming device for sewing machines, comprisin a trimming knife, means for reci rocatmg said knife, means for guiding t e material, said guiding means including rollers, a plate coacting with said knife, and means for revolving said knife and plate upon their common axis in accordance with the direction of the outer edge of the scallop, said knife, plate and rollers being adjustable in position and in movement to suit scallops of varying dimensions.

10. A scallop trimming device for sewing machines, comprising a trimming knife, means for reciprocatln said knife, means for guiding the material having a longitudinal and a transverse feed, said guiding means including rollers, said rollers being on opposite sides of the knife, positive means for rot-ating said rollers, a late mounted in the work table of the mac ine, said rollers being mounted on said plate, said plate adapted to slide transversely in accordance with the scalloping, and means for keeping said knife tangential to the outer edge of the scallop.

11. A scallop trimming device for sewing machines, comprising a trimming knife, said knife being at a distance from the stitching point equal to the width of one scallop, means for guiding the material having a longitudinal and a transverse feed, said guiding means including rollers, said rollers being on opposite sides of the knife, positive means for rotating said rollers, a plate mounted in the work table of the machine, said rollers being mounted on said plate, said plate being adapted to slide transversely 1n accordance with the scalloping, a socket inclosing said knife, a presserfoot secured upon the lower end of said socket, said presser-foot coacting with said knife, a mam shaft, two eccentrics loose upon the mainshaft, said eccentrics being integral and in suitable angular relation, a clutch-disk slidably keyed upon 'the mainshaft, a spring-catch mounted upon said clutch-disk and adapted to engage said eccentrics, a striking fork controlling said clutch disk, a pair of levers, a common pivot for said levers, said ivot having an eccentric adjustment, ro ers carried by said levers, said rollers traveling upon said eccentrics respectively, one of said levers engaging the upper extremity of said knife, the other of said levers engaging the upper extremity of said socket, a sleeve inclosing said socket, an arml mounted upon said sleeve, a pinion secured upon said sleeve, a rack engaging said pinion, a revoluble circular plate fitting in a transverse slot in said sliding plate, said knife being guided through said circular plate, a blade carried by sald circular plate, said blade coacting with said knife, a spring plate pressing said lmife a inst said blade, a pinion connected to sai circular late, a rack engaging said pinion, a seal op forming cam drum, said racks being connected together 4and being operated by the scallo -forming cam-drum, said arm engaging sai striking fork to disconnect said eccentrics in an extreme position and said eccentrics being atomatically reconnected by said spring-catch thereafter. 10 In testimony whereof I aix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

ANTON ORT. `Witnesses: p v GUsTAvE DUMONT, DOUM CAsAmNGA. 

